AP Top News｜在细条纹和帽子，以及手杖和西装上小创新，Met Gala的观众在很大程度将男装服饰展现得十分骄傲

NEW YORK (AP) Pinstripes. All Ways. Hats galore. Pantsuits. Gown suits. Zoot suits. Canes. A single cigar (looking at you Madonna) and expert displays of tailoring. The Met Gala crowd, for the most part, did the Black dandy menswear theme proud at fashions biggest party of the year.

Those that researched the moment and pulled inspiration from history made it modern and their own. I loved it, said Holly Alford, assistant dean and an associate professor in the fashion and merchandising program at Virginia Commonwealth University School of the Arts.

Among her favorites: Colman Domingos homage to dandy icon Andr Leon Talley. It was one of many that honored the towering fashion figure, a rare Black fashion editor in a largely white industry. And among others in odes to Talley, who died in 2022, were Anne Hathaway in a Carolina Herrera dress she picked specifically for him.

We wanted Andr Leon Talley to look down from heaven and scream GLAMOUR, Hathaway said on the Vogue livestream Monday night.

Inventive glamour energy of the night

A glamourous night it was, and an inventive one at that amid a broad White House siege on DEI programs and protections that serve immigrants, LGBTQ+ people and myriad others. What does that have to do with fashion and the theme this year? Everything, in terms of Black power, ownership, heritage and, most importantly, freedom.

What, exactly, was the suggested dress code? It was Tailored for You, inspired by Black dandyism through time, the subject of the Metropolitan Museum of Arts spring show at its Costume Institute.

On the blue carpet, a bit soggy from drenching rain, guests played with the fundamentals of fashion to make their looks their own with the help of designers and stylists. And many honored their heritages in special touches like the cowrie shells on the cuffs of Lewis Hamiltons Wales Bonner jacket.

The shells pay homage to Black diasporic culture, to spirituality, to memory, said Rikki Byrd, assistant professor of Visual Culture Studies at the University of Texas at Austin and founder of the Black Fashion Archive.

Tessa Thompson honored Talley with a fan adorned with his image.

Its representative of a church fan and Andre Leon Talley often talked about his first introduction to fashion was through his church, Byrd said.

Teyana Taylor was a standout for Shantrelle P. Lewis, author of Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style. With her cane, in her red velvet cape, she understood the assignment, Lewis said. Taylors cape was emblazoned with her nickname in honor of her home turf: Harlem Rose. And she, like Swizz Beatz, donned a durag.

Some underwhelmed by how guests did

Lewis, who has been seminal in understanding dandyism, said the attire on the carpet was generally underwhelming.

The lack of color, the lack of African print, even the absence of African designers. I said, Where is the Black dandyism, she said. No sartorial risks were taken.

Big risks? Perhaps. Perhaps not. Brandon Tan, fashion director for Cosmopolitan, was satisfied.

A classic silhouette can be completely reimagined by something as simple as the color and fabrication of the textile, as seen on Henry Golding, he said. Inversely, a very classic grey wool can be totally remixed by the cut and silhouette like Walton Goggins kilt look by Thom Browne.

Who missed the boat altogether?

A few simply showed up in comparatively routine black tuxedoes (hello James Corden) and questionable spins on the theme (Sorry, Halle Berry, but that was a lot of skin in the crotch area).

Coattails of varying lengths were a huge trend amid the sea of hats and head pieces anticipated ahead of the gala that brought together A-listers from the worlds of sports, entertainment, music, art, literature, politics and more to raise money for the Costume Institute.

Black and white looks carried the night, with enough pops of color to keep it interesting.

Colman Domingo and his many fans

Kevin Huynh, InStyles fashion director, also praised Domingo, who wore a huge Talley-esque collared blue cape first, then ditched the cape to reveal a pearled window pain jacket he wore with dot accessories.

As the undisputed king of the red carpet, his regal look was beyond appropriate for the nights theme, Huynh said. He fully embodied the spirit of dandyism in not one but two statement-making looks from Valentino, and he aced it in terms of being unapologetically bold and flawlessly fanciful.

That fearlessness and individuality, he said, is what the night was all about.

After a marathon awards season run, his Met Gala red carpet reveal was well worth the wait. From the moment he stepped out of The Carlyle draped in a jewel-toned Valentino cape, it was clear that more was coming, said Claire Stern Milch, Elles digital director.

And when he finally arrived on the steps, his custom three-piece zoot suit, also designed by Alessandro Michele, was a playful and sophisticated nod to the theme, she added.

Milch called Domingos oversized polka dot flower on one lapel undoubtedly the highlight. The look, she said, was the perfect marriage of classic tailoring and avant-garde flair.

Nikki Ogunnaike, editor in chief of Marie Claire, noted that suiting of all kinds wasnt a huge surprise, considering the style guidance from Vogues Anna Wintour, who puts the gala together each year.

My favorites included Ayo Edebiri in Ferragamo, Tracee Ellis Ross in Marc Jacobs, Zendaya and Lisa in Louis Vuitton, Coleman Domingo in Valentino and Mindy Kaling in Harbison, all of whom interpreted dandyism and suiting in their own unique way, she said.

Athletes turned out at 2025 Met Gala

Athletes, meanwhile, also took the spotlight. Tailoring for them is a special craft that Tom Marchitelli, custom menswear designer and stylist, takes into consideration with all the suits he creates for NFL, NBA and Major League Baseball players.

These guys have these superhero builds, as I like to say, and they cant walk into any store on Fifth Ave, in Rodeo, anywhere and just pick out a suit off the rack to fit them, he said.

Marchitelli said he appreciated the clean form-fitting looks on Philadelphia Eagles players Jalen Hurts and Saquon Barkley .

To have this many athletes showcased, I think that says a lot about how important sport is to culture, pop culture in America, how influential the athletes are, he said.

Black designers represented

The nights vibe was inspired by the exhibit called Superfine: Tailoring Black Style. Its the first Costume Institute show to focus exclusively on Black designers, and the first in more than 20 years devoted to menswear.

Big-time Black designers and smaller brands of creatives of color were represented on the carpet. They included Sergio Hudson, LaQuan Smith and Ozwald Boateng, a former wunderkind of Savile Row.

Others who were not so much

So who are some others who blew it, or didnt even try to spin the theme?

Blackpinks Lisa (Manobal) might have walked the line in her look by Vuitton, a gala sponsor. She went pantless with little faces on black undies to go with her matching jacket and LV logo sheer stockings.

Some on social media thought the faces were Rosa Parks. They werent, a representative told The Cut, explaining they were portraits of figures who have been a part of the artists life.

OK. So it goes. Undie portraits might not be a good idea in general.

As for Corden, The Cut posted a video of him in his mere mortal look and viewers threw some barbs, including one who called him James Boredon giving a total snooze fest per usual.

Ouch, James.

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For more coverage of the 2025 Met Gala, visit https://apnews.com/hub/met-gala.

纽约（美联社）――纽约大都会艺术博物馆慈善晚宴（Met Gala）的观众们以经典的黑色丹迪（Black dandy）男装为主题，展现了时尚界一年一度的盛会。他们身着条纹西装、帽子、裤装套装、礼服套装、齐整套装、手杖，甚至一根雪茄（向您致意的麦当娜），并展示了精湛的裁缝技艺。总的来说，这一晚的观众为黑色丹迪男装主题增添了光彩。

那些研究这一时刻并从历史中汲取灵感的人，使其既具有现代感又具有独特性。我非常喜欢这一点。

在她的收藏中，科尔曼·多明戈（Colman Domingo）向时尚界偶像安德烈·莱昂·塔利（Andr�� Leon Talley）致敬的作品是其中之一。这部作品是对这位高大的时尚人物——在以白人为主的时尚界中难得一见的黑人时尚编辑——的众多致敬作品之一。此外，在向2022年去世的塔利（Talley）致敬的作品中，安妮·哈瑟维（Anne Hathaway）也穿上了她特意为他挑选的卡罗利娜·海拉（Carolina Herrera）品牌的礼服。

星期一晚上，海瑟薇在《Vogue》的直播中表示，我们希望安德雷・莱昂・塔利（Andr�� Leon Talley）能从天堂俯瞰并高呼‘GLAMOUR’（意为‘迷人、炫目’）。

充满创意的夜晚魅力

那真是一个魅力四射、富有创意的夜晚，恰逢白宫对致力于为移民、LGBTQ+群体以及众多其他人群提供DEI（多元化、平等和包容性）项目与保护的行动实施广泛围攻之际。这与今年的时尚主题有何关联？从黑人力量、所有权、遗产，以及最重要的是自由的角度来看，一切都是相关的。

具体的建议着装规范是什么？它叫做“为你量身定制”，灵感来源于通过时间沉淀的黑色浪荡子风格，这是大都会艺术博物馆春季在服装研究所举行的展览主题。

在蓝色地毯上，宾客们在设计师和造型师的帮助下，尽情地玩味时尚的基本元素，塑造出自己独特的风格。而许多宾客也在特别之处致敬自己的传统，比如路易斯·汉密尔顿（Lewis Hamilton）所穿的Wales Bonner夹克袖口上的贝壳装饰。

奥斯汀德克萨斯大学视觉文化研究助理教授、黑人时尚档案馆创始人里基·伯德（Rikki Byrd）表示，这些贝壳向黑人散居文化、精神性和记忆致敬。

特莎·汤普森以印有他形象的一把扇子向塔利致敬。

伯德（Byrd）说，这代表了一种对教堂的热爱，而安德烈·里昂·塔利（Andre Leon Talley）经常谈到他第一次接触时尚是通过他的教堂。

Shantrelle P. Lewis，即《Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style》一书的作者，认为Teyana Taylor表现突出。她拄着拐杖，身着红色天鹅绒斗篷，‘她完全理解了任务要求’，Lewis说道。Taylor的斗篷上绣有她的昵称，以纪念她的故乡：‘Harlem Rose’。而她，就像Swizz Beatz一样，戴着一顶头巾。

一些人对客人的表现感到失望

对丹迪主义（Dandyism）有深刻理解的刘易斯（Lewis）表示，地毯上的服装总体上令人失望。

她指出，色彩的缺失、非洲图案的缺乏，甚至非洲设计师的缺席。她说：“‘黑人风尚在哪里？’‘没有进行任何服装上的冒险。’”

大风险？或许有，或许没有。时尚杂志《COSMOPOLITAN》的时尚总监布兰登·谭感到满意。

正如亨利·戈尔丁（Henry Golding）所展现的那样，经典轮廓可以通过简单的颜色和织物制造进行完全的重新想象。相反，非常经典的灰色羊毛也可以通过像沃尔顿·高金斯（Walton Goggins）通过汤姆·布朗（Thom Browne）设计的苏格兰短裙式的剪裁和轮廓进行完全的重新搭配。

完全错过的是哪些人呢？

一些人只是穿上了相对常规的黑色礼服（例如詹姆斯·科登），也有对这一主题的疑虑（对不起，哈利·贝瑞，但那可是裆部大露啊）。

在为这场盛典准备的各式各样的帽子和头饰中，不同长度的燕尾服尾饰成为了一个巨大的趋势。这场盛典汇聚了来自体育、娱乐、音乐、艺术、文学、政治等领域的顶级人物，他们共同为服装研究所筹集资金。

黑白色彩在夜晚中展现，通过适量的色彩点缀，使得整体效果有趣而生动。

科尔曼·多明戈和他的众多粉丝

《InStyle》杂志的时尚总监凯文·胡恩也赞扬了多明戈。他首先穿了一件像塔利那样的蓝色大领披风，随后脱下披风，露出了一件带有点状配饰的珍珠窗格夹克。

胡恩（Huynh）表示：“作为无可争议的红毯之王，他（所穿的）那套华贵礼服与当晚的场合无比相衬。他不仅以一套、而是两套来自华伦天奴（Valentino）的引人注目的装扮，充分展现了‘丹迪主义’的精神，而且他在毫无歉意地大胆和完美无缺地富于幻想的方面表现得淋漓尽致。”

他说，这个夜晚的主题是无畏和个性。

在经历了漫长的颁奖季之后，他的Met Gala红毯亮相确实值得等待。从他身着珠光色调的Valentino披风走出卡尔顿酒店（The Carlyle）的那一刻起，很明显，他还有更多精彩要呈现，Elle的数字总监克莱尔·斯特恩·米尔奇（Claire Stern Milch）表示。

当他最终在台阶上出现时，他身着的定制三件套礼服（同样由亚历山德罗·米歇尔设计），是对这一主题的活泼且高雅的致敬。

Milch 称，多明戈（Domingo）一侧衣领上的超大波点花无疑是亮点。她表示，这一造型是“经典裁剪与前卫风格的完美结合”。

《Marie Claire》杂志主编Nikki Ogunnaike指出，考虑到Vogue的安娜·温图尔（Anna Wintour）每年负责安排这场活动所给出的风格指导，这次盛典中出现的各种西装并不令人惊讶。

我喜欢的包括艾约·埃德比里（Ayo Edebiri）在菲拉格慕（Ferragamo）的装扮，特瑞·艾利斯·罗斯（Tracee Ellis Ross）在马克·雅各布（Marc Jacobs）的装扮，珍达拉（Zendaya）和丽莎（Lisa）在路易威登（Louis Vuitton）的装扮，科尔曼·多明戈（Coleman Domingo）在华伦天奴（Valentino）的装扮，以及明迪·卡林（Mindy Kaling）在哈比森（Harbison）的装扮，他们都以自己独特的方式诠释了男式时尚和西装。

2025年的Met Gala上，众多运动员亮相

与此同时，运动员们也备受瞩目。为运动员定制服装是汤姆·马奇特利（Tom Marchitelli），一位定制男装设计师和造型师所考虑的特殊工艺，他设计时考虑到NFL、NBA和职业棒球大联盟的球员。他为他们制作的每一套西装都彰显了这一工艺的独特性。

这些人拥有我所说的超级英雄般的体格，他们不能随随便便走进罗德奥的第五大道上的任何一家商店，从货架上挑选一件合身的衣服就穿。

马奇特利（Marchitelli）表示，他欣赏费城老鹰队（Philadelphia Eagles）球员贾伦·赫茨（Jalen Hurts）和沙昆·巴克利（Saquon Barkley）的整洁、合身的外表。

有这么多的运动员展示，我认为这说明了体育对美国文化、流行文化以及运动员的巨大影响力。

黑人设计师的代表

当晚的气氛由名为“Superfine：裁剪黑色风格”的展览所启发。这是首次由服装协会举办、专门关注黑人设计师的展览，也是20多年来首次专注于男装的展览。

红毯上，有众多来自大牌的黑色设计师以及较小的有色人种创意品牌。其中包括Sergio Hudson、LaQuan Smith和Ozwald Boateng，他是Savile Row昔日的杰出青年设计师。

其他不那么突出的参与者

那么，还有谁搞砸了，或者甚至没有尝试扭转局势呢？

BLACKPINK的Lisa（Manobal）在Vuitton赞助的晚会上以独特的装扮亮相，她穿了一条没有裤子的裙子，黑色内裤上印有小脸图案，与她的配套夹克和LV标志的透明长袜相得益彰。

社交媒体上有人认为这些面孔是罗莎·帕克斯。一位代表向《The Cut》解释说，他们并非如此，而是“艺术家生活中一部分人物的肖像。”

好的，情况就是这样。总的来说，内裤肖像可能不是一个好主意。

关于科登（Corden），《The Cut》发布了一段他以凡人形象出现的视频，观众们纷纷发表了尖锐的评论，其中一位观众称他为“詹姆斯·无聊”（James Boredon），并形容他“一如既往地令人昏昏欲睡”。

哎哟，詹姆斯。

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